Saturday, June 15, 2013

Pirate ships, trains, and egg plant

June 15, 2013
Today we decided to do the recommended circle tour of Hakone (which is near the base of Mt. Fuji, however it was completely overcast the entire time we were there, so we never actually saw Mt. Fuji L). The surrounding area is beautiful though and we still had a fun/very relaxing time.  We started by taking a bus down a super, crazy, winding road to Gora. Ben saw a Skyline go up the road ahead of us and he was so jealous that he didn’t get to drive a fast car through the twisty mountain roads; and they were shockingly twisty and the bus driver wasn’t messing around, he was going as fast through the turns as the bus would allow (pretty freaking fast). 




Whenever we were approaching a particularly aggressive series of turns, an announcement would come on saying “we are approaching a meandering part of the road, please take care of yourself and your belongings”. When we reached Gora, our next leg was on a cable car to Sounzan which went straight up the mountain. Then we transferred onto a ropeway (gondola) to Owakudani.






There is a stop at Owakudani where you can get off and explore the mountain a little. This area is famous for its hot springs, so it smelled like eggs up there. But it was pretty cool, we could see the steam coming out of the mountain, and they were boiling eggs in the sulfurous water, which turns the shell black, so everyone was eating black eggs. Also, because of all the hot steamy water, it was super humid up there. After walking around a bit and watching Japanese tourists chow down on black eggs and egg flavoured ice cream (neither of which appealed to us so we didn’t partake), we got back on the ropeway which terminated at Togendai-ko on Lake Ashi.

















Thus began the next leg of our journey, which was on a pirate ship across the lake! It was pretty sweet, but also a little weird to be on a boat that large on a lake with now waves, so it was smooth sailing. From the lake there is supposed to be a beautiful view of Mt. Fuji, but as I said earlier it was too cloudy to see. This time of year apparently is the worst and most days you can’t see it. Ben said he heard winter is the best time, but who knows. I think that maybe if we had left Tokyo earlier when we were heading to Nagoya we may have seen it because the skies were pretty clear that day, but we left at night so we’ll never know.








Our pirate ship left us on the shores of Hakone Machi-ko and from there we walked to Moto Hakone-ko through an “ancient cedar grove”. I must say it was pretty underwhelming and nothing compared to some of the ancient groves we have at home. But it was a nice walk through the woods. It was wet though (the weather in Hakone was nice during the day but wet at night) and I was wearing my flip flops, so my feet were wet and gross when we got out of there. I washed them off in the lake and Ben was pretty certain that I would fall in (for some reason he thinks I’m accident prone, based only on the fact that I tend to drop things, usually food onto my clothes…). I didn’t fall in so all was well. Also, we found another 7-11 that sold pork buns, which Ben had been searching for over the last few days; he was pretty pumped because this was his last chance to have a delicious warm pork bun before we head home.




From Moto Hakone-ko we caught a bus down some more crazy awesome mountain roads to Hakone-Yumoto Station. We wandered through some shops before catching our final mode of transportation, the local train, back to Gora. The train was super cute but super slow and, to be honest, a little boring. There was a family with a small child seated near us and the little girl was grumpy and fussing a lot. She also kept staring at us so Ben was making faces at her (which just made her stare more). The scenery from the train was quite beautiful though, while we missed the cherry blossoms it is now hydrangea season and the tracks were lined with blooming hydrangeas.
Back in Gora we caught the bus back to our guest house and relaxed for a while. There was some drama on one of Ben’s car forums, so he was busy getting caught up on all the latest news while I caught up on my journal (which I’m glad that I did, but at the same time it can get tedious to write every day when I’m not used to doing so).
We have eaten a lot of “snack meals” on this trip but we wanted to make sure we had a real Japanese meal as our last dinner before going home. The guest house had a binder of all the local restaurant menus so we could choose a restaurant instead of just wandering around aimlessly like we did the day before. We chose a restaurant down the road that the guest house described as “traditional Japanese country cooking”. We got to the restaurant between 5-5:30pm and were the only ones there (which was fine because there were ashtrays on the tables and we didn’t want to eat with people smoking at the next table). I ordered teriyaki chicken and Ben got ginger pork, but meals came with rice, cabbage salad, miso with tiny mushrooms, Japanese pickles, and a little bowl of something black that I’m still not sure what it was but it tasted good. 




We also ordered agadashi eggplant, which was a bit of a gamble but I wanted to try something new. Ben was skeptical when it arrived on our table but ended up loving it, it was super tasty! However the portions were very generous and we left there totally stuffed. We also finished our meal at just the right time, because some people had come into the restaurant and immediately lit up (it’s so gross, so many people smoke here and I’m just not used to having to avoid smokers in restaurants).
We had a nice walk home (even though Ben wanted to take the bus I figured it would be better to walk off some of our dinner), and we just chilled out and relaxed until our scheduled onsen time, again at 8:30pm. Afterwards I had seen that I had a few messages from home that the job posting that I had been waiting for (for months!) had finally come out, so I sent in my application.

We were pretty tired (and relaxed from the onsen) so we went to bed around 10:00pm,

vacation, in a vacation.

June 14, 2013
We got up this morning at 6:00am to finish packing our bags and get organized for the day. Toyo had prepared us a bento box so we could eat our breakfast on the train.



 Taso, Toyo, and Lucy even walked us to the trolley station to bid us farewell. We ended up leaving even earlier than we had planned, but that just gave us a little more time to not feel rushed for the train. Also we were a little ahead of the morning rush, so the trolley and the train to the main station weren’t packed, which was nice. We ended up catching the Shinkansen at 7:37am bound for Nagoya and didn’t bother reserving seats (mostly because we got on the Nozomi train, which is more direct and has fewer stops, but isn’t covered by our JR Rail pass, shhhhh). We did get seats together and now Ben is napping with his mouth open.
At Nagoya station we changed trains to one that stopped at more of the smaller stations. Conveniently, our next train arrived on the same track that our last train was on, so we didn’t have to rush to another track with only a few minutes to spare between trains. We arrived at Odawara Station at around noon and we still weren’t completely sure how we were going to get to Hakone from there. According to Google Maps, we had to take a bunch of local trains and then a taxi to get to our guest house, but we found that we could take one bus directly there. We ended up getting a two-day “Hakone Free Pass”, which allows us to take all the transit we want in Hakone. However, after getting on our bus we realized that we really should have gotten the three-day pass because now we are going to have to pay to get back to Odawara Station on Sunday (the bus drivers don’t even really look at the passes so we might try to sneak on with our two-day pass, shhhhh).
We arrived at our guest house in the early afternoon and our room was exactly as I was hoping it would be: tatami mat floors, futons, and paper window coverings. 





Our guest house also has a private hot spring bath that you can reserve (as opposed to the public hot spring baths, which are separated by gender, but you are still in there with a bunch of naked people, also no tattoos allowed, not that Ben would have gone in anyways). The front desk staff was nice enough to reserve a time in the evening for us earlier in the day as the evening spots fill up fast. Our room also came with Yukata, which are basically house coats that, according to the booklet in our room, people wear around at the guest house and also in town. 





They are only thin cotton, so I’m not sure that I would wear it around town, also it looks like pajamas… It is very quiet here, there are pretty much no one walking around on the streets and all the businesses look like they are closed. We went for a walk to find food in the afternoon and ended up just getting some snacks at the 7-11 (again). But it is rainy season, so that is probably why this place isn’t bumpin’. It is very beautiful here, it reminds me of home because of the mountains and forest. Our room looks down on a creek and when we have the window open all we can here is the trickling creek and chirping birds; we have been calling this our vacation within our vacation because we have been so busy and now we are just relaxing.

Since we had all afternoon to kill, we took a bus down to Togendai-ko, which is on the shore of Lake Ashi.










 Again there weren’t very many business that looked like they were open, but we did find one store that had a vending machine that sold hot dogs and another one that sold little jars of milk. 




We also found blueberry cheesecake Kit Kats! We planned on doing a whole tourist day on Saturday, so we didn’t bother going to any of the other little towns and instead came back to our guest house to relax. We watched a show that Ben had downloaded and then I fell asleep for probably an hour; I was so comfortable and relaxed….so nice…then it was our scheduled time in the onsen, which was super hot so we didn’t stay in for very long, but it was also very relaxing.




 After my nap and the hot bath, I was pretty much done. We watched another show and went to bed at about 10:00pm.